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Dolce Milanese


about green sultanas
and the Italian take on a lardy cake



I mentioned in my previous post that I started exploring a little book of buns from all over the world and a few recipes really stood out for me. This is the first one that I tested and it will remain known in our household as the recipe that made me use sultanas. For as far as I can remember I  picked them out, the lot - sultanas , raisins, currents and everything else that even remotely resembles them. 
To my big surprise one day I just bought a bag of green sultanas in the local Turkish shop. I cant explain why, they just looked different, long and thin, juicy and beautifully green.. I was simply drawn to them and then I forgot about them and they spent a good few months in the cupboard waiting for the right moment to show me what they've got .
While I was reading the recipe and later while I was making them I couldn't help it but think that they reminded me of something I previously saw or made, just couldn't remember what; until I saw Paul Hollywood making a lardy cake. That was it..  stylish Italian recreation of a lardy cake, with one "little" twist - butter, instead of lard. Or it's all just my way of seeing it? My English friends disapprove of my view. Well, one way or another, we all loved them.  But I still see them as an Italian version of  English lardy cake made with Turkish green sultana. 



Dolce Milanese 

500g sultana or raisins
 soaked over night ( water reserved)

Dough:

205 g flour
1 tsp dry yeast
2 tbsp sugar
150 g cup of sultana's water
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp rum or brandy
1 tbsp orange zest
100 g butter

Glaze:
1 egg
1 tbsp water


Soak the sultanas in plenty of water and leave overnight. Drain them and reserve the water in separate cup. Put the flour in a bowl, sprinkle over with dry yeast and cover with warm reserved sultana water. Cover with a little bit of flour and leave to rest for 1 hour.
Add the salt, rum and orange zest and bring everything together in a ball; knead for about 10 minutes, then add the butter, bit by bit while kneading until all the butter is incorporated. Allow to rest for 6 hours.
Roll the dough into a rectangle about 5 mm thick, scatter a third of the soaked sultanas over it, fold one of the long sides into the middle of the dough, then do the same with the other side so they meet ( see below).
Now roll it out to widen it into a rectangle and scatter over another third of sultanas, fold and roll again, then repeat once more. Pinch the edges together and flip it over so it is seam side down. Allow it to rest for 20 minutes.
Cut the dough into 2 long strips then cut each strip into 10 pieces, place in the baking sheet, cover and allow to rest for another 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 220C/425F.

Mix the ingredients for the glaze together and brush the buns before putting them in the oven. Bake for 20 minutes. Cover them with some aluminium foil towards the end if they are getting too brown.
Allow them to cool completely before serving.



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Feta Cheese Tutmanik


Bulgarian cross between bread and Serbian "sour dough" turned into buns

dedicated to Nadyia, the lovely, humble winner of  The Great British Bake Off 2015


This post jumped the queue. I have been exploring the The book of buns lately and after making one baking trip from my kitchen to Morocco and another one to Italy (hopefully those posts won't stay in my drafts forever, like a few others I deleted yesterday), I almost reached the end of the book when I found myself looking into a picture of Tutmanik, a popular Bulgarian bread recipe. I remember eating it a long time ago and thinking about it as a very inventive way of blending a regular bread recipe with Serbian sour dough. The sour dough I am talking about is actually not a Serbian speciality, it's well known and spread through out the region (original name - "kiselo testo") and it should not be mistaken for a variety of wild yeast starter, although it sounds like it's the same thing. This dough is made with regular yeast but has a distinctive taste due to its extended proofing time and is very often turned into buns, we make a version of them called "penjurlije", which I adored when I was little. I however, haven't made or seen anything that resembles this simply great way of using the dough in a form of Tutmanik - baked like bread, all puffed up and layered, filled with feta cheese and sprinkled with red paprika flakes. For me Tutmanik (and my beloved penjurlije) tells a story about originality and tradition and at the same time represents the very best of what the Balkans have to offer to the world of baking.



Feta Cheese Tutmanik (Tootmanik)

Dough:
450 g plain flour
4 g dry yeast, (or 10 g fresh)
250g warm milk
1 tsp salt
4 tbsp soft butter ( or lard)

Filling:
1 egg
250 g feta cheese, crumbled
4 tbsp melted butter

 ground paprika for topping

small baking pan ( about 15 x 15 cm, not bigger than 20x20 cm)


Put the flour into a bowl and sprinkle yeast in the middle, pour on the milk; close the well with flour and leave to rest for about 1 hour.
Add the salt, mix and knead for about 10 minutes, add the butter and knead for another 10 minutes, cover and allow to rest for 2 hours.
Mix the egg with the feta cheese, melt the butter and allow to cool.

Turn the dough onto a surface and divide into 9 equal pieces, about 85 - 90 g each. Leave it to rest for 10 minutes, then roll each piece into 10x10 cm square, then brush with melted butter. Top with another square brushed with butter and put the third square piece on the top without brushing it with butter.
Do the same with the rest of the pieces. Roll each stuck into a rectangular the size of your baking tin and place it in the prepared tin ( see pictures below). Brush it with melted butter and spread over half the feta cheese mixture. Repeat with the next 3 pieces of dough and place that stuck on the top of the cheese mixture. Brush with melted butter and spread it with the other half of the cheese mixture. Put the third 3 piece dough stack on the top. With hands, push down all around the outside edge , between the dough and the pan, so that you seal in the cheese. Really pull down the top layer  and stick it well under the rest of the dough to prevent creating a "hat" on the top of the dough.
Cover and leave to rest for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 230 C/450F and just before baking, brush the top with melted butter or egg glaze and sprinkle some paprika on if you like ( and which I highly recommend).
Turn the oven down to 200C/400F as soon as you put the tin in and bake for  about 35 minutes.
Remove from the oven, transfer to a cooling rack and cut only when it's warm. Serve with soup or salad .



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Irish Soda Bread



#Daring Bakes' Challenge September 2015



I'd made Irish soda bread before, but honestly never thought much of it before. It was just a quick bread, something I would whip up when I am in a rush. But, our Daring Bakers host for September, Meredith from the Poco Loco Olsons challenged us to experiment with soda bread and gave me a good reason to reconsider my views on it. Only instead of experimenting with different flavours, I decided to go back to roots and find out as much as possible about this Irish baking pride and joy. 
After pages and pages of internet research I hit the jack pot when I stumbled upon the website of The Society for the Preservation of Irish Soda Bread, full of information about the history and preparation  of traditional soda bread  as created by their ancestors. 
What caught my intention was not the ingredients list, as this is pretty known and contains just flour, buttermilk, salt and baking soda, but the method of baking it. Traditionally they used a bastible pot, a variation of an ancient way of baking known to me from my own culture as sac. You have to try goods baked under the hot coal to know the difference. If nothing else would convert me to like this bread more, this fact would have. As I discovered, even covered with a heavy pan made a difference, as well as wrapping the baked bread with a damp tea towel. Worth every crumb! (Thanks Meredith !)

Here is the full recipe of a brown soda bread, as given on the Society's website: 

  

Brown Soda Bread

  • 3 cups (12 oz) of wheat flour
  • 1 cup (4 oz) of white flour (do not use self-rising as it already contains baking powder and salt)
  • 14 ounces of buttermilk (pour in a bit at a time until the dough is moist)
  • 1 teaspoon of salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda.
2 ounces of butter if you want to deviate a bit.

Note: I used 500 g of eight grains wholemeal flour and 400 g of buttermilk, 1 tsp of salt and 1 1/2 tsp of bicarbonate of soda, no butter. 

Method:
Preheat the oven to 425 F. degrees.  Lightly grease and flour a cake pan.  In a large bowl sieve and combine all the dry ingredients. Rub in the butter until the flour is crumbly.
Add the buttermilk to form a sticky dough.  Place on floured surface and lightly knead (too much allows the gas to escape)
Shape into a round flat shape in a round cake pan and cut a cross in the top of the dough.
Cover the pan with another pan and bake for 30 minutes (this simulates the bastible pot).  Remove cover and bake for an additional 15 minutes.
The bottom of the bread will have a hollow sound when tapped to show it is done.
Cover the bread in a tea towel and lightly sprinkle water on the cloth to keep the bread moist.
Let cool and you are ready to have a buttered slice with a nice cup of tea or coffee.

P.s It works with soups too:)



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What a different world


Mum's cornbread story


I don't think that there is enough appreciation in the world for that little piece of technology called Skype (luckily I am not posting this on the day it globally went down). My parents not only bought a laptop few years ago and learned how to use Skype at the age of 74 but got so attached that my Mum would give up her entire house before she would let go of that small box that is neatly stored in the corner of their bedroom. It prolongs my life, she often says.
We rendezvous every morning before the day unfolds, and again in the evening, sometimes just to say good night, sometimes to chat over a Skype coffee. She prefers the evenings.. loves my daily reports of who, what, when and where...always asking me questions and secretly looks over my shoulder hoping to catch a detail on the table behind me or a glimpse of what is going on in the kitchen. And  there is no way that I can bake something and not show it to her first, Mum sees it first, the Nikon second.

When I showed her this ancient cornbread made with cornflour and hot water, the words started pouring out :

"What a different world! - my mother used to wrap me up in a blanket at 3 o'clock in the morning and take me with her to queue up at the Red Cross point, for a few slices of that bread after the war. I used to hate it. I longed for a white loaf, we called Somun (Turkish) that smelt divine and was such a rarity that the few times we magically got it, we would pretend that we were eating some kind of precious delicate cheese and take a bite of our regular bread and then a small bite of Somun together.
Some time later, after the war, when we had actual flour, mainly wholemeal, which was mixed with cornflour, my grandmother used to bake bread one or twice a week with wild yeast.
When school began I had a classmate from a very privileged background that would come to visit and play with me from time to time. She looked like an angel, blond and very thin, picky about what she eats... but one day, she was hungry. My grandmother tore off a piece of that bread, spread some lard over it and sprinkled it with salt and ground paprika. Apparently, my friend hadn't had such a good snack in a long time. Her mum was first astonished that she ate outside of the house at all, but even more that she kept talking about it, so she asked me what sort of bread her daughter had. To show her, my mother baked a loaf, wrapped it nicely in a clean, starched-then-ironed linen cloth and sent it  to their house - Do you remember how Nana used to make the starch with flour?-  Anyway, to say thank you, my friend's mum would send a warm white bread loaf in return.  I can still smell it.. when I close my eyes.


And you, sitting in the middle of London having almost every possible bread of the world at your disposal are blogging about this bread? What a different world! "


What a different world Cornbread

200 g cornflour or polenta
100 -150 ml hot water
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1 tbsp oil
100 g sweet corn from can (optional)

Preheat the oven to 180 C and  place a 24 cm round cake mould, or a deep baking dish of your choice to get hot
Put the cornflour, salt and sugar in a bowl and combine well, then start adding hot water until you get a bit runny but still compact almost thick paste looking dough. Stir the sweet corn in (if using and pour into the baking tray. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until it gets golden brown on the top. Do the toothpick check if you are not sure.

It can be served warm or cold and agrees very well with feta cheese and pickles.





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Easy Mushroom Flatbread




I found myself in the world of rediscovering vegetables. They stopped being a part of the fixed menu -this is what you do with your aubergines kind of thing. And amazing things started happening around our table, they were actually being given a chance by the whole family and transformed from the 'colourful stuff' that is usually pushed from one end of the plate to another to something somewhat interesting new to try. And we've got my body to thank for that as it has clearly started signalling to me that it can't stand salty stuff, additives and preservatives of any kind, and that store bought white bread is not on the top of the shopping list. But is also clearly saying what is welcome, so this is how the things are at the moment -  the meat is staying put (although I was never a big meat eater any way), my taste buds like fish a hell of a lot more, but beyond any expectations my craving  and consequently love for vegetables, of any colour and shape went through the roof, except for cucumbers and watermelons - it seems that we have a long term disagreement.  


 I don't know for sure, but I suspect that my posts might start leaning more towards my changing eating habits. It will be interesting to see how I will incorporate it into these, baking orientated pages. I won't  be giving up bread, pastry and dough in general any time soon, it's a lifelong lasting affection! And that is probably why I was drawn to this recipe so much - it combines my two current favourites dough and vegetables.


Easy Mushroom Flatbread

250 ml thick natural yoghurt
300 g flour
1/2 salt
few spoons of cold water (if needed)
300 g chestnut or button mushroom, finely sliced.
1 tbsp oil

Combine the yoghurt, flour and 1 tsp salt in a bowl, mix until combined, adding water if needed to bring dough together.Turn onto a lightly floured board and knead until smooth.Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside to rest for 15 minutes or you can refrigerate for up to 24 hours.Divide the dough into 10 pieces (each about 60g). Shape into balls and then roll out on baking paper until 15cm in diameter.Top each with sliced mushrooms and use your palm to press into the dough, then roll over the dough to secure.Layer the pieces of flatbread between sheets of baking paper.Preheat a frying pan on high until hot.Brush both sides of dough with oil and cook, mushroom side-down first for about 1 minute, or until bubbled up and charred, then turn and cook for a further minute. Serve warm sprinkled with salt and herbs.




Recipe adapted from here.
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Salmon and Mushroom Skewer


and Ivana's plain Persian rice 


If you've ever tried the tomatoes that tasted so good that you didn't want to spoil the taste with seasoning, you can understand why I could survive all summer just enjoying them with a slice or two of (home made white, if possible) cheese and a few olives. 
I purposely said survive because if you think about it, on 40 plus Celsius for weeks, back to basics was more or less a necessity; having an abundance of a first class basics at hand however, was a real blessing.

 

(above and below)


As much as I love London I  often  long for more sun and hazy days where you can practically live outside. June, when we left London for our two month journey wasn't particularly promising in that sense as the rain was following us for days; but we wouldn't let ourselves be discouraged. The determination to sit in the sun and eat all'aperto (it's apparently a much more appropriate term for dining outside than al fresco, and here is why: Al fresco, outside or locked up? ) whenever it's even remotely possible was just too strong .
Our road trip started in France, then continued through Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Serbia and Greece - the last two being the places where we spent most of our summer and lived the dream. And more than that; I dare say, we got much more than we bargained for, when our beautiful sunny days started turning into sticky, impossible to breathe, asphalt melting hot days when closing the shutters and drinking enormous amount of ice tea seemed the only sensible thing to do while waiting for the night to come to open the windows and then almost crawl outside holding our chilled, food and drinks in hands.  When the search  for the nearest place to refresh and cool down was completed, we would just sat for as long as possible, without any desire to move, attempting to gather enough energy for another day that would last until the shutters could open again...
Oddly enough, we enjoyed it at first. I suppose that the beaches of Greece and our Serbian house on the hills, away from the city centre helped a bit, but after awhile, the heat started seeping through the walls making every day a little bit less pleasant than the one before.
So, eventually we joined the crowd and our days in the sun became the nights under the Moon.


Just when the situation became almost hopeless we (with two more friends) went to visit my old school friend Ivana in their holiday house in Manastiriste, a picturesque village surrounded by the mounties near by the river Vlasina. 
Now, when I look back, without any hesitation I can tell you that that visit and few consecutive ones after that were the highlight of the summer.  
What I remembered from our school days to be a cosy weekend house, a place for a bunch of high school girls to get ready and be fed before they headed to the river, has grown into a beautiful property with a pool and this (picture above) gorgeous, hacienda looking outdoor resting and dining space.


And our unbearable days in the city at 40 plus C turned once again into the experience we hoped for. From thereon we lived Saturdays in the refreshing water of the pool, surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery and lovely people, who all, to make it even better, shared the same passion for food. Our table was full of simply prepared, delicious, locally produced food, just picked up from the fields and everything without any exception home made, including the goat cheese and wine. All'aperto at it's best combined with the very best of what good rapport between a group of people can offer.
Ivana, our host, cooked one of  best home made plain rice I've ever tasted, which was served with charcoal grilled vegetables, a bit of seasoning and a drop of soy sauce. The idea of frying the rice before cooking it, was not novice to me as I often do it when cooking djuvec, pilau, or stuffed peppers.. But I use short grain rice and it simply didn't occur to me that might be a good idea to try it with the long grain as well.  Ivana has got the idea from her Persian friend whom she met while living in Greece.


                

Ivana's Persian Rice

generous knob of butter
1 cup of long grain rice
2 cups of water ( or even better, vegetable stock)
salt

Wash the rice, drain well and fry on medium heat until it become slightly translucent and coated with butter (no more then 5 minutes). Add the water, warm, if possible, pinch of salt and bring to boil. Lower the heat, cover and let simmer for about 10 minutes. You don't want it to be fully cooked. Turn the heat off and leave covered for another 10 minutes or so, until the water is fully absorbed. Uncover and separate the grains with the fork. Add more seasoning if you wish.
Serve with grilled vegetables. We used peppers, broccoli, courgettes, onions and carrots, lightly brushed with oil before  grilling  and seasoned after.



The Vlasina River


We have been back to London for sometime now and during August I wondered whether the monsoon climate reached this side of the world. But, when the September kicked in, it hesitantly started shining again and along with that came my desire to go back to the kitchen and do something summery before it's completely gone. The best thing is that this recipe could be  made all year round and not only for nostalgic reasons.  


Salmon and Mushroom Skewer

Makes 4

3 limes
3 tbs olive oil
12 button mushrooms, trimmed
300 - 400g skinless salmon fillets, sliced
8 asparagus tips
salt and pepper


Juice 2 lime halves and pour into a  bowl, then add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Whisk until well combined, add mushrooms and stir to coat. Cover and set aside 30 minutes to marinade.
Cut the remaining lime in thin wedges. Cut salmon into cubes. Thread mushrooms, salmon and asparagus tips alternately onto 4 skewers.

Press 1 lime wedge onto each end. Brush  with remaining oil and season well.
Preheat dry frying pan or barbecue plate on medium-high. Cook skewers, 5 minutes, turning to cook all sides. Remove to a plate and allow to rest for few minutes.
Make sure that the pan is hot and that you do not over do it and dry the fish.




I,Bilja and Ivana 

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Gluten-Free Seed and Nut Loaf


Daring Baker's Challenge August 2015



It's been a while since I wrote my last post, actually long enough to make me feel a bit anxious - as my daughter put it, when you have to go and socialise after spending a lot of time indoors. 
For the last (almost) three months I visited many places, met some lovely people, shared precious time with my parents and reconnected with a few old friends; all in all I had a very eventful summer and if I manage to stop postponing (I don't like the word procrastinating, it sounds like I'm doing something wrong) a few things I'll have a lot to post about.
 This month's Daring Bakers challenge might be exactly what I needed to get the wheels turning  since I have been really keen for quite a while to try this bread which has a "life changing loaf of bread" reputation - 
I am amongst the lucky ones who doesn't have to battle with food intolerance and allergies but I always welcome food variety on our table. As a matter of fact my food preferences changed quite a lot lately. I suspect that my abstaining from baking and blogging had something to do with it, but I am not certain that this bread, which I liked a great deal (even though I replaced the binding agent and the loaf remainded slightly wet as a result), could completely replace bread as we know it.  
I tried two recipes, first one provided by our host Susan a very accomplished baker from New Zealand  (please stop by her lovely blog The Kiwi Cook, I am sure that you will find something that interests you) and another one, by Rachel Khoo , Susan offered as an alternative. 
I decided to give the second one a go because it didn't prescribe a binding agent, but used eggs instead and I wanted to compare the two. Besides, due to time shortage I didn't find psyllium husk, but tried a more common binding agent substitute for it,  xanthan gum. And it worked,  but only partially as the baked loaf remained slightly wet, but it was lovely toasted. I'd love to give it a go with psyllium and see how it turns out then!
The other one baked much better, but had a downside - a strong flex-seed taste which was only partially covered by the caraway seeds. I went for just a teaspoon, because 1,5 table spoons sounded too much. Now I wonder, would it be better balanced with the whole amount of caraway seeds?



GLUTEN-FREE SEED & NUT LOAF

  • 1 cup (250 ml) (140 gm) ( 5 oz) sunflower seeds
  • ½ cup (125 ml) (90 gm) (3 oz) flax seeds (linseeds)
  • ½ cup (125 ml) (50 gm) (1¾ oz) sliced almonds (or whatever nut you prefer)
  • 1-½ cups (375 ml) (135 gm) (4¾ oz) gluten-free rolled oats (or try buckwheat flakes or rolled spelt flakes)
  • 2 tablespoons (30 ml) (20 gm) (¾ oz) chia seeds
  • 4 tablespoons (60 ml) (25 gm) (1 oz) psyllium seed husks (3 tablespoons if using psyllium husk powder)
  • 1 teaspoon (5 ml) (6 gm) fine grain sea salt (it’s fine to reduce this if you prefer)
  • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) pure maple syrup (or liquid honey; for sugar-free diets, use a pinch of stevia)
  • 3 tablespoons (45 ml) coconut oil or ghee, melted
  • 1-½ cups (375 ml) water
Method:,C ombine all the dry ingredients and whisk maple syrup, oil and water together in a separate bowl.Add mixture to the dry ingredients and combine until everything is completely soaked and dough becomes very thick (while the mixture will be wet, there should be no excess liquid).
Transfer the mixture to the loaf pan and smooth the top with a spatula.Cover the pan lightly with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours or overnight. The mixture should feel very firm to the touch.Preheat oven to moderate 180°C/350°F/ gas mark 4. Then bake bread initially for 20 minutes.Take the loaf out of the oven, place a wire rack over top and invert to remove the bread (if you’ve lined the loaf tin, you should remove the lining at this point).Put the now inverted loaf on its wire rack into the oven again and bake for another 30-40 minutes (it should sound hollow when tapped). The loaf should be starting to brown on the outside - this gives a lovely nutty crunch to the finished loaf.Let the loaf cool completely before slicing - I found using a fine serrated knife for slicing worked better than a typical bread knife with its more exaggerated serrated edge, which made for a very crumbly slice 
You can store the loaf in an airtight container (or wrap it in plastic wrap) for up to 5 days. You can also freeze it for at least 3 months (it helps to slice it first before freezing so you can enjoy that occasional piece of toast!).


No knead dried fruit and nut bread
Ingredients
100g sunflower seeds
100g pumpkin seeds
200g almonds, hazelnuts or walnuts
100g linseed
100g dried fruit, chopped into bits
150g milled flaxseeds
4 eggs
80ml oil
1.5 tbsp caraway seeds
1 tsp salt
Equipment
1 loaf tin, lined with baking paper
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180c (fan).
2. Mix all the ingredients together.
3. Pour into baking tin and level out.
4. Bake for 50 minutes/an hour or until it is firmed and sound hollow when hit.
5. Leave to cool completely until you slice it (while warm it’s still very fragile).
This bread keeps well for several days and is very good toasted.



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